Slow food movement spawns tasty sampling event at Johnny's Kitchen Feb. 2

The slow food movement has finally arrived in Northeast Florida with the creation of the Slow Food First Coast convivium (chapter). If you are not familiar with the concept, it was born in Italy and popularized in the USA by Alice Waters, owner of Chez Panisse restaurant in Berkeley, Cal.

Fruit Cove Middle School teacher Richard Villadoniga is a founding member of the group. He said the objective of the parent organization, Slow Food USA, is to create a Community Sponsored Agriculture (CSA) project where members would receive a weekly supply of fresh, seasonal, local produce directly from a farmer in the area. In October he got about 25 people together for the first meeting of the group. He now has about 100 people on the e-mail list who are interested in getting information on becoming members of this grass roots organization.

Villadoniga said he has had an interest in food for a long time. He started cooking when he was ten or eleven years old and has expanded that interest since. Villadoniga now writes a column on food wine and travel for The St. Augustine Record and is a contributor to Waters Edge magazine. Last year he was the recipient of a Geoffrey Roberts Grant which allowed him to travel from coast to coast researching heritage foods. He traveled in six weeks more than 1,500 miles, covering 27 states and he wrote about his journey. You can find out more about his adventure by going to www.eat-american.com.

"There are little pockets across the country where only a few people still grow these old fashioned varieties," Villadoniga said. "I wanted to visit with those people and find those varieties. I teach seventh grade Geography and I want my students to know where these foods come from. They will be the ones to preserve them and pass them on in the future."

Villadoniga found a kindred soul in Johnny Barnes, owner of Johnny's Kitchen, a restaurant in Hastings. Barnes serves local vegetables, whatever is in season, in his restaurant. Since he only serves breakfast and lunch on weekdays, he offered his location for a recent dinner to get people acquainted with the new organization and some of the products available in our area. The place was packed on Saturday night, Feb. 2, when my husband and I arrived. We found a table in the corner and a fellow diner introduced us to the custom of the night; help yourself.

My nose had recognized some of the beautiful smells as we entered. Now I had the opportunity to try some of that delicious food. I took a portion of kohlrabi and spinach with Myer lemon dressing, some baked onions with Swiss cheese and some fresh olive bread which I learned had been purchased at the Farmers Market in St. Augustine. I also had a glass of home brewed root beer compliments of Roger and Carol Stewart, the first I had tried since leaving Missouri. Then I found out that this was only the first course.

I knew I had better back off, so when I was directed to the main course serving, I only took a spoonful of each of the offerings. Broccoli, baked beats and carrots, kale, rutabaga, creamed Brussels sprouts, and turnips with cornmeal dumplings were offered, all produce procured from County Line Produce. Wine, Datil pepper flavored peanuts, and home made desserts were to follow. What was a person to do? I had to sample the Southern Spiced Pecan and Pumpkin pie and a sliver of Buttermilk pie, both made by Villadoniga's girlfriend, Lisette Robles. My husband stuck with something chocolate.

"I hope to get more people involved in the group. Farmers in the area need to be revitalized and we can help by supporting their efforts. The more people that show an interest in eating locally, the more farmers will want to continue to grow crops on their land. This will preserve more of our green space and offer more diversity. If you buy locally grown food from a local farmers market or go to restaurants that serve locally grown products, the cycle will continue," Villadoniga said.

David Dinkins, Director at the University of Florida IFAS Agricultural Center near I 95 and State Road 13, said he supports the movement. "We are hoping to get the word out to farmers that their products have a market. We hope to start a Regional Farmers Market either here at the Agriculture Center or somewhere else in the county. The market has been in the Master Plan for the center for a long time," Dinkins said.

There are numerous reasons for buying local foods in season from local growers. The include better health, supporting small farms, knowing what you are (and are not) eating, learning about the seasons and getting to know the people who produce your food. There are several books on the slow food subject. Those I have read and can recommend are: Michael Pollan, "The Omnivore's Dilemma"; Eric Schlosser, "Fast Food Nation"; Barbara Kingsolver, "Animal, Vegetable, Miracle"; and Alisa Smith and J.B. MacKinnon, The 100 Mile Diet".

To find out more about the slow food movement or how to become a member of The Slow Food First Coast convivium go to www.slowfoodusa.org.

Beverly Fleming is a park naturalist with the St. Johns County Recreation and Parks Department. She can be reached at (904) 284-9488.